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Thursday 10 December 2009

Pham Ngu Lao before the eyes of her lover



If you are not a Vietnamese, try walking along Pham Ngu Lao Ward at night and get a taste of its real face beyond those lighted alleys, sparkling disco bars, and western restaurants.

Don’t be surprised when a motorcycle driver approaches with marijuana packs and says “motobike you 5dollars”, or a cigarette vendor with their colloquial pronunciation “mawiwana”, if not bystanders on the streets saying “ecstasy madam eight dollars”.

Locals are selling these stuffs blatantly like pancakes that in almost every corner of the bars you can smell weeds or see tourists having pot session.

On Fridays and Saturdays, grab a chair in one of those Vietnamese noodle and seafood shops in De Tham and Bui Vien streets. There you can witness the drama of those gorgeous Vietnamese ladies clinging to those white guys from all ages hoping to get passport outside Vietnam or hoping to earn money for the night, the so called “boom-boom cheap cheap” (prostitute very cheap).

Sex tourism is condemned in this country but one says “this is Vietnam just speak English and the authorities will leave you in peace”. Could it be because they cannot understand when these foreigners start speaking English? Or could it be because these visitors are spending money that benefits the country’s economy? Or could it be a deeper reason behind that? Or if it is true or not at all.

For whatever reason, one should wonder the statistics of HPV cases or other sexually transmitted diseases otherwise the neglect of responsibility to protect their health, might end up in desperate needs of antibiotic shots.


Sitting on a small chair in one of the “bia hois” (local shops offering alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages) is interesting as you meet a lot of different people from fake to real ones.

In those “bia hois” at Pham Ngu Lao, one can claim to be a doctor, lawyer, or journalist but turn out to be a mere traveler who will go home jobless to their own country.

Light is breaking up as the sun rises. Tourists coming out drunk from disco bars will shake the entire Pham Ngu Lao village, shouting, if not run half naked on the streets.

This scenario is coupled by foreign lovers fighting like cats and dogs, or a local girl complaining for not being paid for her service, or worse white drunk guys punching each other as they fought who can take home the local girl they met at the disco bar.

Morning comes, stores, souvenir shops, hostels, and travel agencies open up for their daily business operations.

Getting a bowl of “Pho” (Vietnamese noodles) at the corner of Pham Ngu Lao street is famous among party goers and late night observers alike. However, expect a Vietnamese Pho wait staff slamming the chopsticks, fork, and spoon holder in the table as they served your order. Customer relation aspect in this tourism area of Vietnam is not commonly practiced.


Walking back to my room, I saw tourist buses already lining up on the streets while waiting for their guests having coffee or breakfast in one of those western restaurants at Pham Ngu Lao village. Normal daytime activities go on- with Vietnamese nationals from vendors, tourism executives, plumbers, utility workers, "xeom" drivers, and lineman- make a living while tourists are busy with their holiday activities.

Ahhh...Pham Ngu Lao, I’m already getting familiar of your face, your nagging nature, and aggressiveness towards unregulated “tourism pleasure” activities.

Hot weekend in Nha Trang


It's hot, hot, hot! And I am not only talking about the summer weather or the typical Vietnamese spicy foods but all the things a tourist can do in Nha Trang at night.

Tired of seeing the busy streets of Saigon, I took a nine-hour bus ride out of the city to spend a weekend in Nha Trang. Full story was originally published here...

Hue’s royal tombs showcase culture and history


If you are interested to get a glimpse of Vietnam’s royal past, Hue is the right place to go.

Located at the central part of Vietnam, Hue is the country’s ancient capital and the stronghold of Vietnam’s royal families some 60 years ago.

My holiday wandering brought me to this place, which I have been targeting for an educational trip, for quite sometime.

Mui Ne behind the lens



For photo enthusiasts, Mui Ne is one place for you to snap away and capture various scenic views.

This coastal resort town located some 200km northeast of HCMC, is one of my favorite places in Vietnam. Full story was originally published here...

Halong Bay-a dream wedding destination


Known to the Vietnamese as “The Descending Dragon,” Halong bay remains a paradise that tourists worldwide long to experience.

The bay in Quang Ninh Province in the north is about 170 kilometers northeast of Hanoi and can be reached by bus for over three hours ride.

Its picturesque limestone islets and wonders of nature are now becoming an awesome wedding destination for lovers. Full story was originally published here...

Tuesday 13 October 2009

On foot to the rugged north


It had been a long time since I trekked hills, climbed mountains, and walked in the villages. Sometime along my journey as practicing broadcast and print journalist in Mindanao, covering “lumad” (indigenous people) issues was my favorite. I get to walk in the mountainous area, have a close encounter of the people in the villages and learn its culture and tradition. Born with a backpack shoulder, I brought my passion for that kind of adventure in Vietnam. And on foot I toured the rugged north with some independent travelers and a team of professional tour guides of Columbus Adventure Travel & Tour. Northern Vietnam, where Sapa is located, is blessed with amazing landscapes, rice paddies, and a home to diverse ethnic minority groups. It is a place to visit if you want an ultimate experience of Vietnam’s culture and traditional daily lives practice of various Vietnamese tribes. With the number of tourists visiting Sapa, Columbus guides offered us a new place. Instead of the main tourist area in Sapa they brought us to a village called “Hidden Tibet” where there’s not much tourists. The village as situated on top of the hills overlooking the wonderful view of rice paddies and the green lush view of the forest. No one speaks English, so we were all dependent to our tour guides who were so helpful in explaining to us the culture of the “Hidden Tibetians”. However, even with the presence of the guides I always remember one thing, a lesson I would never forget when I was still covering armed conflict, and that is to be sensitive to the culture and tradition of the people I met, so they’ll always treat you like their best friend. Dressed in their traditional costumes, the people assist our guides in showing us around the village. As an Asian myself, surprisingly I received a warm welcome. Well I have to say this, I look like a Vietnamese but my color is tan that oftentimes I got mistaken to have come from the countryside of Vietnam, a farmer color of skin so to speak. If I don’t open my mouth I’ll expect a cold gesture. People here love foreigners. For them, tourists or expats means money, if not someone they can learn to speak English with. True, they’ll be very happy to hear you try to learn their language but you’ll also be the number one target for overcharge. In almost a year of living and traveling in Vietnam, I’ve mastered identifying the “rip me off” taxis and souvenir shops.The people from the villages, however, did not try to sell things like in the market of Sapa, so I did not worry getting bombarded with girls pushing stuff into my face and won’t leave me alone until I’ll buy from them. Girls were all over me, not to sell things but because they find it amazing that I look like them and yet I don’t speak their tongue. I took pictures and showed it to them that attracted them more to hover all over me. It was fun and the most gratifying experience I ever had with the locals in the countryside. I’ve been in the countryside of Saigon, joining a group of expats setting up trail for the weekend Hash Run but camera trick and a Vietnamese look with a foreign tongue didn’t help, I got chased like a goat eating their crops.
The “Hidden Tibetians” that Columbus experts brought us, however, offered blood from the snake they caught and cut in front of us, as a warm welcome. To show gratitude, I didn’t say no despite the fact that I was dying to vomit just by the thought of drinking that unfriendly smell and fresh dark red color sticky syrup look like in front of me. I’ve eaten snake which I ordered in some restaurant in Saigon but it was prepared in the hidden kitchen, not like a ritual to welcome us. I was proud of myself though, I did not vomit and I was still wearing my sincere smile for them. I heaved a sigh of relief and murmured to myself, “Ha! I’m a real backpacker now”. The journey for me was not long. I opted not to join the group for an overnight homestay adventure as I know I will have a lot of that in the near future. Besides I broke my camera and I can’t take pictures anymore. A taste of culture from northern people of the country that hosted me is enough right now. With more time, I intend to get a closer encounter of the real world of Vietnam’s ethnic minority group. North Vietnam promised an exciting adventure yet to be explored.