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Thursday, 10 December 2009

Pham Ngu Lao before the eyes of her lover



If you are not a Vietnamese, try walking along Pham Ngu Lao Ward at night and get a taste of its real face beyond those lighted alleys, sparkling disco bars, and western restaurants.

Don’t be surprised when a motorcycle driver approaches with marijuana packs and says “motobike you 5dollars”, or a cigarette vendor with their colloquial pronunciation “mawiwana”, if not bystanders on the streets saying “ecstasy madam eight dollars”.

Locals are selling these stuffs blatantly like pancakes that in almost every corner of the bars you can smell weeds or see tourists having pot session.

On Fridays and Saturdays, grab a chair in one of those Vietnamese noodle and seafood shops in De Tham and Bui Vien streets. There you can witness the drama of those gorgeous Vietnamese ladies clinging to those white guys from all ages hoping to get passport outside Vietnam or hoping to earn money for the night, the so called “boom-boom cheap cheap” (prostitute very cheap).

Sex tourism is condemned in this country but one says “this is Vietnam just speak English and the authorities will leave you in peace”. Could it be because they cannot understand when these foreigners start speaking English? Or could it be because these visitors are spending money that benefits the country’s economy? Or could it be a deeper reason behind that? Or if it is true or not at all.

For whatever reason, one should wonder the statistics of HPV cases or other sexually transmitted diseases otherwise the neglect of responsibility to protect their health, might end up in desperate needs of antibiotic shots.


Sitting on a small chair in one of the “bia hois” (local shops offering alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages) is interesting as you meet a lot of different people from fake to real ones.

In those “bia hois” at Pham Ngu Lao, one can claim to be a doctor, lawyer, or journalist but turn out to be a mere traveler who will go home jobless to their own country.

Light is breaking up as the sun rises. Tourists coming out drunk from disco bars will shake the entire Pham Ngu Lao village, shouting, if not run half naked on the streets.

This scenario is coupled by foreign lovers fighting like cats and dogs, or a local girl complaining for not being paid for her service, or worse white drunk guys punching each other as they fought who can take home the local girl they met at the disco bar.

Morning comes, stores, souvenir shops, hostels, and travel agencies open up for their daily business operations.

Getting a bowl of “Pho” (Vietnamese noodles) at the corner of Pham Ngu Lao street is famous among party goers and late night observers alike. However, expect a Vietnamese Pho wait staff slamming the chopsticks, fork, and spoon holder in the table as they served your order. Customer relation aspect in this tourism area of Vietnam is not commonly practiced.


Walking back to my room, I saw tourist buses already lining up on the streets while waiting for their guests having coffee or breakfast in one of those western restaurants at Pham Ngu Lao village. Normal daytime activities go on- with Vietnamese nationals from vendors, tourism executives, plumbers, utility workers, "xeom" drivers, and lineman- make a living while tourists are busy with their holiday activities.

Ahhh...Pham Ngu Lao, I’m already getting familiar of your face, your nagging nature, and aggressiveness towards unregulated “tourism pleasure” activities.

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